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Rekey or Replace? How to Decide

It's the most common question in residential locksmithing, and the industry has a financial incentive to answer it wrong. Here's the honest decision tree.

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What Rekeying Actually Is

Inside your lock's cylinder is a row of pins of different heights. Your key's cuts match those heights; that's all a key is.

Rekeying means the technician swaps those pins for a new set. After that, a new key operates the lock and every old key becomes scrap metal. Same hardware, same look, same security rating. New keys. It typically takes minutes per lock once the technician is at your door.

Replacement means removing the hardware entirely and installing new locks: necessary sometimes, but a bigger job with a bigger bill, and often sold to people who didn't need it.

The Decision Tree

Match your situation to a line below and the answer is usually obvious.

  • You moved in, hardware is fine → rekey. The previous owner's agent, contractor, dog-sitter, and ex all potentially hold keys. Rekeying resets that to zero. (Full checklist: the day-one move-in guide.)
  • A key is lost or was never returned → rekey. Whether it fell out of a pocket or left with a roommate, the fix is identical and immediate.
  • Locks stick, wobble, or look tired → replace. Rekeying a worn-out lock is putting new strings on a broken guitar. If the mechanism is failing, honest advice is replacement. See lock installation.
  • You want a security upgrade → replace (selectively). Rekeying keeps your security level; it can't raise it. If the goal is pick/bump/drill resistance and controlled key copying, that's a high-security cylinder upgrade, usually worth doing on the main entry first, not every door.
  • After a break-in → depends on what broke. Damaged hardware gets replaced; untouched doors usually just need rekeying if key control is in question. The full playbook: after a break-in.

The Money, Side by Side

These are the published totals for each option, so the comparison is concrete.

OptionPublished totalWhat you get
Rekeying visit$85 – $225One visit, 1–4 locks re-pinned, new keys cut on site, keyed alike on request
Lock installation$60 – $180 per lockNew hardware (ours or yours) fitted and aligned, as part of a service visit
Deadbolt installation$80 – $200Including fresh door prep where the door never had one
High-security upgrade$120 – $310Pick/bump-resistant cylinder with controlled key duplication

All-inclusive published ranges: service call, labor, evening timing, fees, and taxes included; exact total confirmed before work begins.

The Upsell to Watch For

One sentence sells more unnecessary hardware than any other in this trade.

"These locks all need to be replaced." Sometimes true, but it's also the most profitable sentence in residential locksmithing, so it deserves a follow-up question: "What specifically is wrong with the hardware?" A legitimate answer names a mechanical problem you can see or feel. If the answer is vibes, the honest fix was probably an $85–$225 rekey.

One Visit, Whole House

The most satisfying version of this job: one visit, every exterior lock re-pinned, and one new key that runs all of them. Where a door carries an odd brand that will not join the set, keying it alike means a matching cylinder, quoted from the published ranges before anyone fits it. The rekeying page has the rest.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does rekeying make my lock less secure?
No. A properly rekeyed lock is mechanically identical to the day it left the factory, just operated by a different key. The security level comes from the hardware itself, which is unchanged.
Can every lock be rekeyed?
Most standard pin-tumbler locks, yes: knobs, deadbolts, and many commercial cylinders. Some cheap or damaged locks are not worth rekeying, and some smart locks rekey differently or not at all. The technician tells you at the door which category yours falls into.
Can I rekey my own locks with a hardware-store kit?
Sometimes. Some consumer deadbolts and knobs are built to be reset by the owner, with a small slot beside the keyway and a reset tool in the box. If your doors have that, do it yourself and keep the money. Standard pin-tumbler cylinders are a different job: the plug comes out, the pin stack is rebuilt, and one dropped spring ends the evening. Mixed brands, worn hardware, or keying every door alike are where a visit earns its cost.
Can my front door, back door, and garage entry all use one key?
If they are the same brand/keyway, or converted to be, yes. Keying alike is done during the same visit and is one of the most appreciated small upgrades we do.
How fast does the old key stop working?
Instantly. The moment the cylinder is re-pinned, every old copy is dead metal. That immediacy is the whole point after a move, a lost key, or a bad parting.

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